Photograph by Carl Heilman II
I’ve always been dazzled by the stars; the sheer number, the twinkling, their ability to enchant from an incredible distance. For as long as I can remember, my first order of business outdoors at night is to crane my neck for an unbridled view of the evening’s canvas. Tonight, on the still Raquette River, I don’t know whether to look up or down.
I’m in nature’s funhouse; a confusingly stunning display that renders me frozen in place, clutching my paddle. It’s as if the sky sneezed, spraying a replica of stars below, and I’m floating amongst them. From my front-row seat at the helm of a tandem kayak, I whisper back to my friend, “Holy moly, this is insane.”
Having grown up with the Adirondacks as my backyard, I’m always seeking fresh ways to experience the place I call home. This is precisely how I found myself, quite literally, star-struck on a night paddle with St. Regis Canoe Outfitters during the Perseid meteor shower’s peak. As our shooting star tally continues to climb, a nearly full moon slowly rises, and a persistent concerto of crickets, frogs and owls fills the silence, my childlike wonder suggests that this might be the most epic and immersive endeavor so far.
Tupper Lake’s elevation and lack of light pollution make this region ideal for dark-sky exploits. My senses prickle on high alert as my eyes perpetually adjust to the cloak of night. I feel excitedly on edge. As if on cue, the sharp slap of a beaver tail tests my startle reflex, which is alive and well. The Milky Way curves dramatically above us as we continue paddling toward our guide’s voice.
A post-adventure conversation with Seth McGowan, president of the Adirondack Sky Center & Observatory, explains it perfectly. “The real magic is the sensory change. Night paddling removes the distance between you and the environment; a rare chance to experience the wilderness without the ‘filter’ of sight, forcing you to rely on intuition and sound. It’s incredibly humbling. You feel less like a ‘tourist’ looking at a landscape and more like a quiet participant in the natural world’s night shift.”
Nighttime Paddling Tips
“Paddling at night is a completely different experience from during the day. You’re able to witness a new ecosystem, only available at night; it’s a whole other world,” says Matt Smith, head guide at St. Regis Canoe Outfitters. Here’s his advice for getting started.
• Take a class from a certified instructor who can offer practical advice, or consider hiring a guide who knows the area well.
• Temperatures can drop at night, especially with clear skies—dress in layers/bring extra clothing in a waterproof bag. Always wear a PFD.
• Never paddle alone at night.
• Ensure everyone has a waterproof light source. Glowsticks are great; they illuminate not only people, but also the bow and stern of the boat.
• Avoid open water. The middle of the lake can be challenging; stay closer to shore.
• Visit that spot in daylight so you become familiar with it.
• Take a waterproof map and GPS, and bug spray.
