Morels are typically found growing under decaying trees, in company with showy orchids and wild ginger, from late May to early June. Enhancing soups and sauces and complementing almost any meat dish, they offer “a taste that is no longer winter, but not quite spring,” says Cuffe.

To learn how to sustainably harvest wild leeks, also known as ramps, see “To Take a Leek” at www.adirondacklife.com. Use a reliable guidebook to identify any foraged food before consuming.

•   6 or so wild leeks (or substitute shallots), tops removed
•   10–12 fresh morels, cleaned
•   3 tablespoons butter
•   3 tablespoons flour
•   20 ounces chicken broth
•   ½ teaspoon caraway seeds
•   1 teaspoon salt
•   1 pint heavy cream
•   1 tablespoon wild leek tops, diced

Remove tops from leeks; set aside. Thinly slice the white bulbs of the leeks. Remove stems from morels and coarsely chop caps. Sauté morels and leeks in butter until leeks are transparent. Remove mushrooms and leeks. Stir flour into the butter. When it forms a smooth paste, gradually stir in chicken broth. The mixture should thicken slightly. Add morels, leeks and caraway seeds. Cover and cook over medium heat for 30 minutes. Stir in cream and heat for 5 minutes. Top with chopped leek tops.