February 2018

The Tree Army

The Tree Army

“You know, it’s kind of a big deal.”

A few years ago, my youngest daughter—around eight at the time—paused for about a nanosecond in her bouncing-off-the-walls excitement over an upcoming trip to deliver that earnest assessment of camping. 

We’re not a family of hardcore backcountry adventurers, but a couple times each summer we’ll pitch a tent at a state campground and spend the weekend falling asleep to the chirrups of crickets and waking to the yodels of loons. Those public campgrounds are my daughter’s portal into the wilds, and her experiences there—running feral with her cousins, paddling a misty morning lake, catching an unexpected meteor shower—will inform her relationship with nature for the rest of her life.

The Adirondacks is rich in these wilderness gateways thanks, in part, to an initiative born of desperation: the Emergency Conservation Work Act, more commonly known as the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC).

Camp Abilities

A dozen kids in bright pink jackets and vests are streaming down the broad boulevard of fresh snow at Old Forge’s McCauley Mountain. Arms outstretched, legs making triangles, they cascade like an army of five-pointed stars. Some have a guide skiing backwards in front of them; others are listening intently to a coach nearby who reaches out to touch a shoulder or hand. They’re feeling the mountain with their moving feet, no poles at all.

Days and Nights at Dewey

Days and Nights at Dewey

The summer after my junior year of high school I found myself working on a cattle ranch in Montana owned by Mel Gibson. He ran it from afar: in the two months I was there, I spotted more rattlesnakes (one) than movie stars (zip).

I grew up in Manhattan, and nearly every one of my assignments on the ranch—helping to drain a goiter bulging from a cow’s neck; re-stringing barbed-wire fences; remaining on the back of a horse as it streaked across open country—felt miles beyond my reach.

The first time I cross-country skied Dewey Mountain, in Saranac Lake, my mind returned to Montana and the memory of a particularly perilous task: driving a tractor, top-heavy with a load of hay, across the slope of a steep hill. I had expected the thing to topple and roll or slide out from under me at any moment. So long, senior year. (No one else at the ranch appeared worried.)

The Quiet Collective

The Quiet Collective

A dying patient once confessed to hospice chaplain R. W. Williams, “You know, I’ve never done this before.” In the quarter-decade that Williams has been making house calls across the southern Adirondacks, traveling 1,000 times a year from his home in Northville to sit with those seeking comfort, he’d never suggest to anyone that he has the answers. What he does tell them is, “You’re never alone. If you have a phone, call me—midnight, two a.m. … anytime.” Same goes for what he says to callers on the other end of the Fulton County suicide hotline he’s answered for 38 years.

Skinning Up

Skinning Up

It’s still dark when my bedroom door creaks open. My father tiptoes in and sets the cat down beside me on the bed. I check the clock: 5:15. Last night we agreed on five; my father is being kind. Anyway, we both know that if light breaks and we aren’t up there, the morning will be wasted, and we might as well have slept in.

Battle on Skis

Battle on Skis

I’d skied over the tops of Marcy, Lyon Mountain and Poke-O-Moonshine, but never across the top of a 250-year-old British military parapet. During the French and Indian War there were two clashes called “The Battle on Snowshoes” in the Adirondacks, but never a Battle on Skis. Last February, several of us decided to remedy that, setting upon the forts at Crown Point on our boards.

On Sale Now

October 2026

Lost hikers, splintered bones and wildfires—a forest ranger reflects on more than two decades of coming to the rescue. Plus the oldest tavern in the Adirondacks, a trip through James Bond’s Lake George, and new energy in Schroon Lake.

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