June 2018

Safe Passage

Safe Passage

Last week John Davis heard that four dead coyotes had been found along a road a mile or so outside of Essex. They’d been shot.

Killing coyotes isn’t illegal. According to the Department of Environmental Conservation, each year 33,000 New Yorkers hunt and trap them. A license is required and there’s a designated hunting season, unless the animal is considered to be a “problem.” The dead, dumped animals were a reminder to Davis, a conservationist who has dedicated his life’s work to protecting wildlife and their migratory corridors, that there’s still much to be done.

Hotel Saranac

Hotel Saranac

Lore has it there are ghosts at Hotel Saranac. But if you’re trying to get in touch with the past at the hotel, you don’t need a team of paranormal investigators. You just need to take the staircase to the second floor, climbing stone steps whose edges have been rounded over by countless footfalls, and head to the wood-trimmed telephone booths by the lobby bar. (Kids, ask your parents about telephone booths.)

There, hanging inside the defunct stalls, are dozens of index cards left by visitors who have shared their handwritten memories of the 91-year-old hotel since it reopened in January following a four-year, $35 million restoration:

“When I was a small boy I used to ride my tricycle through the arcade.”

“Used to stay here back around 1945 to perhaps 1948. Dad used to call on laundries here, and my mother and I came up for our vacation.”

“When I was in high school, we used to come here after school, play in the elevators + explore. Sshh … don’t tell anyone!”

The Roedel Companies, a New Hampshire–based hotel firm whose founders have ties to Saranac Lake going back more than a century, spent twice its original budget and two years longer than planned on the project. Viewed purely in business terms, there are easier ways to open a hotel. But Fred Roedel III, the company’s chief financial officer, acknowledged that reopening the hotel means a lot more to Saranac Lake than just putting 82 rooms downtown. The hotel isn’t just an economic anchor to this village of 5,300—it’s a community one, too.

Shingle Shanty

Shingle Shanty

For someone coming from the suburbs of New York City, the first thing that jumps out at Shingle Shanty Preserve is the silence. It washes over you, envelops you—the utter lack of thrumming, clatter, barking or bits of conversation. Just simple, sublime quiet.

Then there is the seemingly endless expanse of untouched nature: 15,000 acres of privately owned conservation lands at the top of three watersheds, with hundreds of acres of boreal wetlands, thousands of acres of northern hardwood forests and nine lakes and ponds, much of it surrounded by state-classified wilderness and primitive areas. It is remote even by Adirondack standards—an island within an island. As such, it is an ideal laboratory to plumb the mysteries of an ecosystem whose vast complex of peatland bogs more closely resembles landscapes hundreds of miles to the north.

Legal Tender

Legal Tender

Snow flurries melted into the asphalt on Route 9 in Chestertown, west of Lake George. It was a gray morning in late fall, and the photographer and I couldn’t find Etain, LLC. The North Country’s only medical marijuana factory is not designed to stand out—there’s no sign, it’s set back from the road and so discreet we drove past it.

Hog Heaven

Hog Heaven

Visitors to Kate Mountain Farm, in Vermontville, see the large, furry creatures in the distance and sometimes think they’re sheep; they have coarse curls of hair that look almost exactly like fleece. Except for the larger males, they’re roughly the same size as sheep. It isn’t until you’re right next to one and hear it grunt that you realize this is either a confused member of the ovine family or … it’s a pig.

On Sale Now

October 2026

Lost hikers, splintered bones and wildfires—a forest ranger reflects on more than two decades of coming to the rescue. Plus the oldest tavern in the Adirondacks, a trip through James Bond’s Lake George, and new energy in Schroon Lake.

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